35 Exposures: Berlin + Copenhagen

BERLIN

My favorite thing about Berlin besides the music and the €3 cappuccinos was the fashion. I would go so far as to say that I’ve never been to such a well-dressed city in my life. 

It makes sense that a place so concerned with history would have such strong vintage influences. The leather is worn, the fibers are natural, and the layers are comfortable and familiar to their wearer. One afternoon, we stumbled on a vintage market in Friedrichshain, the cultural center of Berlin’s artistic scene. It was a celebration of old meets new, from racks of 70s suede jackets to stacks of 2010s skinny jeans. Its patrons, too, were just as diverse. While the US is currently locked in the grips of Y2K and 90s simplicity, the Berliners were not beholden to one era but rather pulled the best from many. By drawing so closely to one particular time in fashion we risk becoming a pastiche rather than creating a new idea for a new age, which I believe Berlin does exceptionally well. This is also much more sustainable, which is another important value to the German people that I believe is reflected here. 

I mention Berlin’s obsession with vintage; however, it’s also true that again and again, the timeless fashions of the past met the irreverent essence of the city that makes Berlin so electric. Garments of the same color but completely opposing textures paired together (I will never forget the woman who paired a green, fur-trimmed formal jacket with green track pants); completely opposing colors colliding deliciously; skirts over jeans and ties with cropped button downs. Berlin is a diverse and young city, with a population that celebrates diverse cultures. The culture is also very no-bullshit, with a tendency for straight-talking. I can’t help but bring the club culture into this conversation as well, and Germany’s attitude towards nudity - there is distinctly less shame associated with the body, and this allows fashion to flourish in incredible ways. Somehow by removing the taboo placed on exposing the body, more room is created to use the body and the self as a vessel for expression rather than something to cover or uncover as an act of defiance. I saw this in the way that Berliners used texture, color, and cut to create interest in their outfits which I felt was more akin to art than fashion traditionally. 

Important to the conversation of old meets new is the use of accessories. Never before have I seen such hats! Bucket hats, newsboy caps, ascot caps, berets, sailor hats. Hats have long stood out to me as a neglected category of accessory, and it was inspiring to see such a variety. In general, I was under the impression that Berlin fashion was simplistic and all black. On the contrary, I found that it could be quite maximalist. I wonder if, because Germany is so concerned with sustainability, accessories serve as a way to add variety to a rotation of pieces that are treasured and familiar. Beyond hats, the scarves, jewelry, bags, and belts served to further elevate. This is also an area where trendier colors and items are more prevalent, creating an interesting tension between old and new. When I complimented the man’s glasses in the picture below, he shrugged and said “Just mass market, you know?” 

A final point that struck me about Berlin fashion was its practicality. Common themes of baggy jeans, leather jackets and extreme layers were both fashionable and perfect for the chilly weather. I had the impression that they were clothes that could be worn all day and even transition from day to night. As someone with a closet full of clothing for specific occasions, it inspired me to cultivate a more functional wardrobe for the everyday. 

COPENHAGEN

Copenhagen fashion is certainly informed by the city’s climate, perhaps more so than Berlin. I could tell that people invested in their outerwear and accessories because it can be quite cold and snowy/rainy there for a large part of the year. I saw some fabulous coats, from the fur-lined one pictured below to a floor-length, baby blue shimmering trench. 

Another practical consideration in Copenhagen: biking. With a cycling rate of 64%, it’s safe to say that many people select their wardrobe with this in mind. High-cuff pants, leather to cut the wind, and gloves all stood out to me as ways bikers stayed comfortable on their rides.

However, just as interesting was some of the biking fashion that seemed almost antithetical to the task: skirts, heels, dresses. Using a bike as your primary mode of transportation means that, at times, you need to sacrifice style for practicality. And I certainly saw a couple of examples where this was challenged or defied. 

I would say that Copenhagen fashion was much more classic and elegant than in Berlin. While both cities had a more elevated expectation of dress for a public setting (you rarely saw someone in athleisure or sweatpants out and about) Copenhagen took it to another level. As the birthplace of the “clean girl”, I suppose it makes sense. Slacks, slicked-back hairstyles, gold jewelry, blazers, and heeled boots/loafers were certainly the norm, and Scandinavian women seemed to prefer a natural, fresh and refined appearance.

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35 Exposures is JELLY’s street style series, where we explore the trends and themes captured within one roll of 35-exposure film. The practice aims to link fashion and culture and to explore the ways in which they inform each other.